“I’ve always had a childhood passion for design… So, it was truly a childhood love that transformed into a lifelong career.”
Supreme luxury, exquisite craftsmanship and a harmonious marriage of the classic and contemporary is what defines the couture fashion house, Ammara Khan. Ammara Khan’s love affair with fashion started at the young age of 10 and was further consolidated during her years at New York’s FIT and Florence’s Polimoda. The designer has recently expanded her brand to include beautiful prêt wear while maintaining her high standards of couture design. Here, Ammara Khan talks to OK! Pakistan about her time in New York and Florence, which inspires her to date, keeping up with the evolution of fashion while maintaining the timelessness of her craft and design, and what to expect from her ready to wear collection.
How did Ammara Khan come about?
Ammara Khan: I’ve always had a childhood passion for design, probably since I was about 10 years old. As I grew older I knew that fashion design was the field I wanted to be in, and I was fortunate to pursue my education in couture and design at the Fashion Institute of Technology (FIT) in New York and Polimoda School of Art and Design in Italy. So, it was truly a childhood love that transformed into a lifelong career.
What does fashion mean to you?
AK: Fashion is a form of individuality and self-expression.
Tell us about your brand. What makes it stand out from other labels?
AK: Our emphasis on original, unique design, highly specialised craftsmanship, luxurious fabrics and attention to detail is appreciated and recognized. Our designs are timeless classics and are relevant for years to come. Everything we do, whether it’s design or client servicing, originates from a need to create something eternal. For us, working on an order is not merely a business transaction but a first step to a long-term relationship.
How was your experience at FIT, New York and Polimoda, Italy?
AK: It was absolutely incredible! I am grateful to have attended some of the best design schools in the world, where the training, exposure and knowledge one receives is incomparable. Also, the experience of living in these two cities – New York, which is the epitome of a cosmopolitan city, and Florence, which is a jewel from the Renaissance era – transfers you to a world of art and culture; it’s like heaven for a creative mind. It’s incredible to be able to live in places like these where I can take in all these life experiences and added knowledge that will probably forever inspire me when it comes to my work.
Any memorable moments from your time there?
AK: One of my favourite memories from FIT was probably during my final year. During this time, students get to work with a fashion critic on a project and I was very fortunate to have the world-renowned couturier, Reem Acra as my critic. Working under her guidance, and her appreciation of my work, are memories that I will always cherish.
In Florence, I was inspired by the beautiful manufacturing facility for the Roberto Cavalli brand, and I was most fascinated because of how beautifully they would print their fabric. It is very exciting for us as we have just recently ventured into ready-to-wear (RTW) and I am really enjoying print design! Our first collection has been very well received and I’m very excited for everyone to see the Spring/Summer ‘18 collection and campaign!
Do you think having an educational background in fashion is vital? How has your education helped you?
AK: I think there’s no such thing as having enough knowledge because one can keep learning and there’s no end to it. I think that attending these schools and acquiring a technical training in design has been crucial in solidifying my talents and skills as a couturier and a fashion designer. But I would also like to add that going to school can only help you so far – you must have that passion and love for design, and that innate desire to create, which can only then be molded further through technical training.
You started with couture in 2002, how do you think fashion has evolved since then?
AK: Ammara Khan is a heritage brand and we focus on creating pieces that are timeless and will stay relevant for years and years to come. We’ve had people invest in our pieces 10-15 years back and they have worn and re-worn those clothes, which are as relevant now as they were back then.
“Thus, although fashion has evolved greatly, at Ammara Khan our designs are eternal and so they evolve with the wearer. While the craft and design ethos are timeless, our styles can be changed in ways that suit the evolution of fashion.”
A lot of designers including yourself showcase at fashion weeks; do you think this helps the designer? If so, how?AK: There is definitely a very big benefit of showing at a fashion week as you are able to connect with a whole new set of Pakistanis both locally and internationally. People all over the world get a chance to see your designs, which in turn helps bring in some lucrative business.
Having solo shows is slowly becoming the norm. What would you say about that?
AK: Each brand should do what makes sense to them. It’s really all about your brand goals, clientele needs and creative aspirations.
What has been your inspiration?
AK: I’ve been inspired by a lot of different things. Travel, culture, art, history and nature. Creatively, I think you can be inspired by anything and everything. It’s really just about opening yourself to the possibilities and inspiration just comes to you.
From couture to prêt – how has that worked out?
AK: It’s worked out just beautifully. I cannot explain how excited I am to have stepped in to prêt and how much fun it is to create such pieces, especially delving into print – an area that I’ve really enjoyed working on. I do think that prêt was a natural step for the brand. Working on couture and an extremely niche market for 15 years to now moving that aesthetic towards prêt, is not only challenging but also very exciting and something that I can see the brand really finding a place in.
Any challenges you faced in your fashion journey?
AK: I think if a person is a perfectionist, which I believe I am, striving for that perfection is not easy. However, one has to always stay steadfast in their ideology, dedicated to their philosophy and committed to being true to what they are. On a personal level though, time management for me has been difficult! Between the kids and the growing business I find it overwhelming sometimes.
What is your design philosophy? What parameters do you keep in mind during designing?
AK: Ammara Khan is a luxury fashion house defined by timeless sophistication, glamour and elegance.
“There’s an innate classic sense of style and a passion for creating avant-garde designs, and this philosophy has been the defining force behind the fashion label, which is recognized for its originality, exquisite craftsmanship and extraordinary attention to detail.”
When I work on a new collection I always follow my instinct and don’t focus on parameters or boundaries. However, with a bespoke design I do focus on what works for my client, whether that be their body type, their individual style or their personal preferences. For bespoke, I do believe that the client must have as much ownership as I do and so the design must fit their story and their identity.
What is your typical day like?
AK: I wake up around 8 am and allow myself a relaxed breakfast since that’s my ‘me time’. After that I go to my office, where I try to fit in everything from design, to production to operations. I try to always go back home to have lunch with my children, after which I rush to my studio to meet clients and give them the personal time that our brand is known for. I end the day with some more family time and then get back to the day’s emails and messages.
What had been the most defining point of your career?
AK: When you ask me what my defining point is, I don’t think I can ever pinpoint just one time or aspect of my career. I’ve been very blessed to find success in all that my brand has ventured into but I think what I’ve been most excited about is the day-to-day enthusiasm that surrounds my job. I love the pieces I create and the clients I meet, and I’m lucky enough to be surrounded by people who are equally passionate about the brand. So, for me it’s probably the everyday wins that define my career – it’s what keeps me going and what makes all the hard work and dedication worth it.
We see designers collaborating with different textile mills – any plans of venturing into that as well?
AK: I have been approached for lawn collaborations since 2014 but I wanted to wait and first study print and prêt on my own in order to understand whether I am as passionate about it as I am about my couture. Now that I’ve done my first prêt collection and have thoroughly enjoyed it, I do think that I might look into collaborating with someone, as long as our ideologies are similar.
What are you most comfortable designing? How daring you are when it comes to design?
AK: When I’m creating a new collection I only follow my instinct and design, which comes from within and because of this we’ve been lucky to set trends in the industry.I don’t know if you’d call that daring, but I just don’t hold myself back when it comes to designing what comes to me natural
“So just because someone is not used to seeing or doing something, that will never stop me from creating what comes from within.”
How do you face criticism when you are at the receiving end?
AK: I am honestly my own biggest critic and I think as long as I am satisfied with my work, anyone else’s opinion doesn’t bother me much.
If you were not a designer, what would you have been?
AK: I think there is nothing else for Ammara Khan but fashion design. However, I do have a great love for interiors and often think about venturing into that area as well.
Tell us about your upcoming collection. What can we expect?
AK: So I am working on two distinct lines for both divisions of the AK lines. For the RTW line we are working on some beautiful prints – expect to see some gorgeous animal prints, which is something I’ve always loved and it is a huge trend globally, plus there will be beautiful florals and lovely fresh colours for Spring. For couture, although my silhouettes will be very contemporary, I’ll be going back to some heritage craftsmanship. So I’m quite excited about that.
Where do you see yourself in 10 years?
AK: I don’t like discussing the future much but we have big plans and maybe we can discuss them over tea, in a decade or so [Laughs].
Rapid Fire
Ammara Khan in one word?
AK: Perfectionist.
Which celebrity would you like to dress?
AK: Amal Clooney.
Latest purchase?
AK: A painting by an unknown artist and an Erdem jacket.
Your muse?
AK: One of my closest friends, Iqraa Mansha, and internationally, Charlotte Casiraghi and Olivia Palermo.
The best thing that ever happened to you?
AK: My three boys.
A good mood changer?
AK: Old music.
What puts you off?
AK: Unprofessionalism.
Favourite perfume?
AK: Oud Ispahan.
Favourite colour?
AK: Blue and white.
Reigning trends of 2018?
AK: Animal print and long and short hemlines.
Favourite fashion designer?
AK: Virgil Abloh, Georgina Chapman and Victoria Beckham.
Dream destination?
AK: Italy.
The Ammara Khan woman is?
AK: The 21st century, multifaceted, driven woman of today.
INTERVIEW: MEHR KASSIM
PHOTOGRAPHS: COURTESY AMMARA KHAN
