“Fashion is a vicious industry”
It all began when I went to New York at the age of 17,” Deepak reminisces. His uncle owned an export-based garment company in Pakistan and the teenager took up the role of a seller, which involved him taking stock to the United States and supplying to retailers such as Macy’s and Anne Klein. Upon his return to Karachi in 1994 – “which was around the time Copper Kettle had opened,” Deepak fondly recalls – he went on a wild goose chase trying to hunt down clothes but “…just couldn’t find anything fashionable.” So he went to his uncle’s factory, picked up some fabric and started making his own clothes.
A Greenwich University student at the time, the designer made quite the impression with people on campus who were eager to buy his designs, and as a result, the young Deepak designed 20 shirts, which were stocked at a store called Designer’s Den. Four days later, he got a call saying that all his shirts were sold out. Deepak restocked and four days later, the shirts were sold out once again. Due to the positive response, Deepak decided to stock at Collage, the only multi-brand store in Karachi at the time. He had initially decided to stock under the label Design Studio, but the manager of the store told him that he liked the sound of “Deepak Perwani” and if Deepak were to stock at his store, it would have to be under that name. And from that day onwards, there has been no looking back for Deepak Perwani.
Tell us about your first fashion show.
Deepak Perwani: My first fashion show took place when I began stocking at Collage. They were so impressed that they decided to have an in-house fashion show to showcase my collection. It consisted of 70 outfits and I had asked boys and girls from college to model for me. That’s also how I got to know Muniba Kamal; she was one of my models. The only piece of clothing I sold was a shalwar kameez and that too was bought by my cousin so I was really distressed. Two days later, I got a call informing me that every single article of clothing was sold so I began stocking more and more.
How did you transition from stocking your clothes elsewhere to setting up your own boutique?
DP: My parents asked what I wanted to do and I told them that I had decided to continue doing what I had been doing – designing. On my 21st birthday they surprised me with a 1985 Corolla, which was very rare, and a store on Zamzama. The rest is history.
Did you always know you were going to be in the fashion industry?
DP: If I weren’t a designer, I would have been a phenomenal buyer or merchandiser. That being said, I really enjoy what I do. I’m one of the few Pakistani designers who handles everything and that includes commercials and videos too – we’ve done over 200 videos with artists ranging from Vital Signs and Junoon to Fuzon and Hadiqa Kiani and, more recently, Zeb and Haniya. We’ve also designed uniforms for hotels including PC and Marriott. It’s really funny because each time I check in at the Lahore PC and they ask me for my name, I tell them, “My name is on your butt” [Laughs]. We’ve designed the Beaconhouse uniform as well and it’s pretty cool when students come up to me and ask me about their uniforms, especially the little pocket I’ve added on the sleeve. I keep telling them, “It’s for the aesthetics” [Laughs].
How do you constantly find inspiration for each collection?
DP: The thing is, I know when I’m working on an edgy collection and when I’m working on a crap collection and it’s intentional, because honestly, it’s just too much pressure to design. When you come up with a groundbreaking collection, it’s important to also keep your consumers in mind.If I now get new inspiration and base my work on that, the Frieda collection will come to an end and there’s so much more to her that I still need to explore. It’s the same with Amrita Sher-Gil. I could design Amrita for the next 20 years and I could design Frieda for the next 40; that’s how much creative attraction I have towards those I’m inspired by and I’m just not ready for a new inspiration right now. So if some idiot tells me that my collection is pretty much the same as the last one, I’m thinking, “You idiot, there’s so much more to it.” Of course you incorporate new trends but the source of inspiration can remain the same. Like I said before, it’s intentional.
“You need to make sure you create stuff that will also sell and you need to constantly keep the market in mind, otherwise it’ll just be a disaster.”
Who is your muse? Has he or she changed over the years?DP: The muse has changed over the years. Naveen Naqvi was the first muse. Aaminah Haq was one of our muses and she remained our muse for quite a long time. Then it was Fayezah Ansari, and now it’s Atiya Khan. Atiya’s got an interestingly bohemian sense of style and can put separates together quite well. She’s been our muse for about four years.
Describe the person you design for.
DP:She knows how to get what she wants, and she has to be edgy and stylish. I design all kinds of stuff – I design for a global village. I don’t want to restrict myself to a third world country. I realise that pictures speak volumes and I don’t know where my picture will take me in the future. Anyone, anywhere in the world can see it, and if I get a call from Singapore tomorrow, for example, I can just walk into my inventory and pick up lots of outfits that will work perfectly in Singapore.
“The Deepak Perwani man is very confident, highly obnoxious, and you’re looking at him. The Deepak Perwani woman is sexy, provocative and out to get the world.”
What’s your take on the Pakistan Fashion Design Council (PFDC) and Fashion Pakistan Week (FPW) controversy?
DP: I think they’re both fantastic platforms. I’m not going to say one is better than the other and I wish people would stop asking these questions. I’ve shown my collection at PFDC and I’ve walked on the ramp at PFDC as well, so I have absolutely no issues with the Council. I think both are great.
Being a part of Fashion Pakistan Council, do you feel a certain sense of responsibility?
DP: Yes. We’re a part of the Council, so it’s our responsibility to give back. We recently sponsored two students to participate in the Special Olympics but I prefer not to blow my own horn and I don’t like stressing about who’s getting publicity and who isn’t. I never tell journalists what to write. Also, I really don’t mind constructive criticism. I’m highly against people becoming power hungry. Fashion is a vicious industry where you get overnight hype in one second, where you’re sitting in the front row and then suddenly you’re dropped and no one knows who you are. So it’s important to keep your feet on the ground at all times.
Who are your favourite designers?
DP: In terms of local designers, there’s just so much talent in this country and it would be unjust for me to single one designer out. And I’m not just saying this, I truly mean it. Some are high-end couturists like Bunto apa and then there’s Nilofer Shahid who’s extremely experimental with her cuts and uses a lot of French inspiration. There’s also Rizwan Beyg and his embroideries are to-die-for – they’re like tapestries! Faiza Samee is phenomenal as well. For prêt, I think Khaadi does a beautiful job and so does Origins. Internationally, I loved what Tom Ford did for Gucci and I also think Michael Kors (MK) is great for American prêt. He knows how to sell; I remember getting on the subway in New York and on route from Manhattan to Queens, I’d spot everyone with the Louis Vuitton Speedy, and now, everyone has switched to MK.
Do you think it’s important to have an educational background in fashion?
DP: I think it’s very important to have technical background in fashion. It makes life a lot easier. In terms of a general fashion-based education, well it’s beyond that. Either you have it or you don’t.
What advice would you give to newbies?
DP: Work hard and keep in mind that it’s all about offering something different. The most amazing thing about Pakistan is that we appreciate talent.
You’ve designed for about two decades. How have you grown as a designer?
DP: I haven’t grown at all. I’m still a 19-year-old. This is the era I want to be born in again. I wouldn’t want to change anything in my life. It’s been an amazing journey, and it all started when I was 19. Who would have thought that by 21, I would be meeting heads of states all over the world?
How has your work evolved over the years?
DP: Brands have to evolve over the years, and that’s what we’re doing and have been constantly doing. Shaadi wear, lawn, prêt and costume design for films – we’re doing it all.
You’ve joined the lawn bandwagon. Tell us about that.
DP: Well, lawn is your prêt, or at least that’s the case for Pakistan. I will, of course, continue working with lawn.
What are your future plans?
DP: Firstly, I need a vacation [Laughs]. No, but seriously, the sky is the limit. Also, we’re designing scarves for LRBT (Layton Rahmatulla Benevolent Trust), which fights blindness and is the largest NGO in the country to do so. The scarves are a lot of fun and we’re working on a Pakistani version of the “Keep Calm and Carry On” trend. I’m also doing a fashion show in Nairobi, which I’m psyched about because I’ve never been to Nairobi before so that should be interesting. We’ve even been nominated for the European Fashion Awards and are the only design house from the Muslim region to have been nominated, so that’s pretty exciting.
You’ve constantly used the term ‘we’ throughout this interview.
DP: I’m only the face of the brand. There are about 200 people behind me who deserve credit. If it weren’t for that master, that karigar, that girl and that assistant, it probably wouldn’t be the way it is. So I would say it’s all about collective team effort. I’ve loved everybody who has worked for us.
What are some of your interests and hobbies apart from fashion?
DP: I love reading and I love cinema. I’m almost done with the film script I’ve been working on. I love collecting kimonos and art. I also love collecting people and constantly meeting different people. I enjoy helping people out as well, especially those who’re not very financially independent. For instance, I can be obnoxious to you because you’re at the same level as me but I’ll never be obnoxious to the less deserving or less privileged. I used to play a lot of tennis but it’s been a while since I last played. I also need to start working out.
If you weren’t in the fashion industry, where would you be and what would you be doing?
DP: I’d totally be an actor. Totally. Or I’d be running a TV channel. I’d definitely be an actor, though. I’ve gotten three offers for films in the last month.
Who are some of your closest allies in the fashion industry?
DP: In the fashion industry, you must keep your enemies closer [Laughs]. I have friends in the industry but I don’t know about allies. I don’t think anyone from the industry dislikes me. I’ve tried to be nice to everyone. If you call me, I’ll help you out. It’s as simple as that.
What does success mean to you?
DP: God is kind. That’s all I can say. Sometimes I do feel a little burnt out because I’ve been around for so long. People come up to me and say, “Aap tou baray young hain, laikin hum to kab say aap ka naam sun rahay hain,” and I’m like, “I started young!” What else can I say – I think the house of DP has always managed to get the right kind of team.
What has been a proud fashion moment for you?
DP: Many. The standing ovation I received in Milan was fantastic. Another proud moment was when Shabana Azmi asked me to make a sherwani for Javed Akhtar, which he wore when he received an honour from the Indian Prime Minister. I was told I’d be in their hearts and minds while he was receiving the award. In addition to this, I have six Lux Style Awards and two MTV Awards. I was also the Best
International Designer at the International Fashion Weeks held in Miami, Malaysia and Colombo. I’m even in the Guinness Book of Records for creating the largest kurta in the world that I made in collaboration with Ariel. Other proud moments include speaking at Cambridge and Harvard.
QUICK FIRE
Who’s your favourite photographer?
DP: They keep changing but Tapu Javeri and Rizwan ul Haq. I even think Guddu and Shani are great, and Khawar Riaz is pretty amazing as well. I generally think pre-Photoshop photographers are next level compared to post-Photoshop photographers
When you’re not working you’re…
DP: Sleeping
How do you de-stress?
DP: I go to the beach on Sunday. Writing helps me and so does playing Scrabble online. It really helps a lot and everyone is a seven-letter word fiend
Do you have any hidden talents?
DP: I have a photographic memory and can recognise people’s collections from years ago
What’s your most valuable/prized possession?
DP: My mother. There can be no one like her. She’s quite the maverick and she’s gorgeous! She’s a male version of me and she’s a Capricorn as well.
What’s your workout regime?
DP: I was working out at Shapes until last year and then I ended up messing up my back and arms and sat home for a year. Now I’m a sexy fat blob
What’s your favourite travel destination?
DP: Barcelona and maybe Paris, but definitely Barcelona. It feels like “us”. I love their laid back attitude. They have the beach, the mountains; they have everything just like Pakistan. New York will always be New York and it’s gorgeous but it’s very large. London is quaint and stunning but it’s miserable. I love Rome as well. It’s stunning but it may get boring. Spain is different from all of these places. It’s very free
What’s on your bedside table?
DP: The 100 Year Old Man Who Climbed Out the Window and Disappeared. It’s a brilliant book
During the weekends you can be found…
DP: At home reading a book or watching a movie
Favourite movie…
DP: What’s Up, Doc? with Barbara Streisand
Most overrated celebrity…
DP: Angelina Jolie
Favourite restaurant…
DP: Meerat Kabab House
Hottest actress…
DP: Keira Knightley and Isabella Rossellini
Favourite book…
DP: Raj by Gita Mehta, A Thousand Splendid Suns by Khaled Hosseini and The Fault in Our Stars by John Green
Are you in a relationship?
DP: I’m thinking about it. I think it’s time for me to get serious with someone, and a serious relationship will at some point turn into marriage, I think
FEATURE: MAIRA PAGGANWALA
PHOTOGRAPHS: AYAZ ANIS
