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FAIZA SAMEE

The doyenne of fashion invites OK! Pakistan to her residence and shares her most memorable moments in fashion and what inspires her.

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The Epitome of Customs and Traditions

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When we speak of the fashion industry’s heavyweights and trendsetters, only a handful of names come to mind. Faiza Samee is undeniably a part of that list of accomplished designers. She likes to keep her designs traditional, believes in sheer perfection and manages to wow fashion aficionados every time. After showcasing her work at Aalishan Pakistan in India last month, Faiza shares the details with OK! – how her collection varied for the market and how it was received by fashionistas on the other side of the border. She is a workaholic and loves every bit of what she does. And we love it, too!

In this feature, Faiza talks about her hobbies, personal style and what she would be if she weren’t a fashion designer. Also, check out an exclusive photoshoot held at her favourite place – the gorgeous Leighton House Museum.

How do you constantly manage to find inspiration?
Faiza Samee: I have a naturally creative thought process. I see beauty in everything I look at, and have had this instinct since my childhood. I am especially inspired by the rich culture and heritage of the subcontinent and central Asia. I feel it is important that traditional patterns and art of these areas be appreciated and kept alive.FP6-0398-pp

Why is Leighton House Museum your favourite place? Is there something about the location that specifically intrigues you?
FS: It is definitely right up there! I fell in love with Leighton House Museum when I first visited many years ago. It’s very much a hidden gem I find myself drawn to over and over again. Perhaps it’s because it is so much more than just a museum; it’s where Leighton lived and worked, creating the incredible work he produced. And Leighton’s work itself – not to mention the aesthetic movement more generally – is something that I think has great parallels to how I think about design. Re-interpreting and re-casting the styles of the past for the present and making them relevant and contemporary, but keeping alive the sense of craftsmanship. The asthetiques, and Leighton in particular, managed to achieve this beautifully.

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Describe your personal style.
FS: My work mirrors my personal style. I’d like to think of it as an eclectic mix of old crafts and modern ideas.

Your colour palette is fabulous, how do you figure it all out?
FS: I draw on our cultural heritage and tradition which I feel are rich in colour and life. I love colour and have an instinct which guides me effortlessly.

Who is the Faiza Samee woman?
FS: The Faiza Samee woman is a confident, strong individual who knows herself and her raison d’être.

Do you have a favourite bride or a favourite bridal that you’ve designed?
FS: Every bride I design for and work with is an individual project. Each relationship is special and it would be too difficult to choose one.

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What has been your most memorable or proudest moment in fashion?
FS: One of my proudest moments during my career was when mohtarma Benazir
Bhutto, who was prime minister back then, was on an official visit to Washington DC and she presented the top 25 women in Pakistan who had made a difference in their chosen field of work. It was an honour to have been amongst that group of women.

What has been the greatest setback in your career and how did you overcome it?
FS: I did not encounter a struggle to set up the actual business. However, it was a challenge finding the skilled craftsmen to undertake the various embroideries initially as this was a dying craft. I spent months researching vintage textiles at the V&A in London and buying textiles at auctions. This allowed me to study the techniques used and work with the few embroiderers I had at the time. Eventually we started to train a younger generation in the intricate techniques required to produce the exquisite pieces the house creates.

Out of your children, who has inherited your incredible talent?

FS:Though they may not have gone into the fashion world, they use their natural skill and talent in everything they do, and I feel that too is very important.

“All my children have inherited my love for good aesthetics, and my grandchildren also have a love for fashion and impeccable style just like me.”

 

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Did you always know you were going to get into the fashion industry?
FS: I’ve always been very creative. Ever since I can remember, I have had a deep love for art and beauty. As a child, too, I loved to draw and paint and it seems to me as I grew up that I used my creativity in other things as well. So I believe fashion was a natural evolution for me. When my brother was getting married and I couldn’t find the quality of work I was looking for, for his bride–to–be’s jora, and noticed that the ancient crafts were dying out, I decided to take action, and took matters into my own hands.

What are your interests and hobbies?
FS: I have, and always have had, an interest in art and history. I love looking at and appreciating beauty and beautiful things. I love to travel and explore. Thus, I enjoy visiting museums and attending auctions. My family is very important to me and I stay connected with them constantly.
I also enjoy spending time with old friends whenever I can.

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Name three people who inspire you.
FS: Both my parents have served as inspirations to me because of their love, strength and outlook on life. My mother Saleha motivated us and taught us that no goal was impossible to achieve if we set ourselves to it; we had to earn our own pocket money instead of just receiving it. My father, who loved literature and poetry, gave us our love for books, and taught us the importance of courtesy and good manners. My husband Samee’s uncle was also a huge inspiration for me. I remember soon after I got married at the age of 16, my husband and I were in London and Samee’s uncle (maamu) invited us to join him on a tour of Europe, where he had business. He was a well-educated, intelligent and elegant man, who spoke several languages fluently including French. What I respected most about him were his impeccable manners and inter-personal skills. He had a way of making people feel at ease. Yet when it came to business he would say what he had to say firmly without mincing words, while maintaining his composure and without infringing on the other person’s dignity. He introduced us to elegant French living and dining.
I feel like his attitude towards life really spoke to me, and inspired me. Regrettably none of them lived to see me achieve anything in my chosen field.

What is your favourite travel destination?
FS: I love and have always loved London. I feel like it’s a city that is so vivacious and full of life, and that really speaks to me. My son also lives there, and so I’m able to spend some quality time with him – just relaxing and taking a break.

You exhibited your work in India earlier this month. How was the overall experience and how receptive was the Indian audience?
FS: It’s always great to travel to India, particularly if it involves a fashion show. It was wonderful participating in the Aalishan Pakistan Expo, and Pakistani creative talent resonated strongly with the crowd in India.

Did you create a collection specifically for the Indian market?
FS: Yes, we created a couture collection specially for The Lifestyle show in Delhi and I’ve always enjoyed the artistic challenge of making sure that each of my collections keeps the intended audience in mind.

“Whilst India and Pakistan are incredibly similar, our fashion sensibilities are subtly different.”

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What advice would you give to aspiring fashion designers?
FS: Work hard. Focus. Follow your instinct. Be original and stay true to yourself. Personally for me, humility is also very important.

Do you have any plans for the future of the iconic Faiza Samee design house?
FS: The house will continue to produce luxurious individually designed pieces, employing artisanal skills. Each piece is lovingly worked by hand. Our karigaars have an affinity with what they do, and have pride in their work. We will never compromise on quality over profit.

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Where do you see the Pakistani fashion industry in the next ten years?
FS: I feel the fashion industry in Pakistan is growing at a good pace, and offers lots of opportunities for new talent, and will continue to grow!

ON A PERSONAL NOTE…


Three things you never leave the house without…
FS: Extra peppermint (gum), cell phone and notebook

If you weren’t a fashion designer, you would be…
FS: An architect (specifically restoring old structures) or maybe a jewellery designer or potter

Favourite international designer
FS: My favourite varies from collection to collection. Karl Lagerfeld has been doing some interesting collections recently as is Dries Van Nuten. Ulyana Sergeenko is another one of my favourites

Favourite local designer
FS: Rizwan Beyg

If you were the President of Pakistan for a day, the one change you would make immediately would be…
FS: To have a programme with good education for all; whether I can change the status quo in a day, not sure

Favourite past-time
FS: Embroidering sample patterns on the karchob

Who is your muse
FS: Women all over the world are my muses

Something no one knows about Faiza Samee
FS: I’m a huge tech junkie

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FEATURE: SAHER H PARACHA, MAIRA PAGGANWALA
PHOTOGRAPHS: TAPU JAVERI, ADNAN QAZI


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